The recipe I’m sharing is an easy approach to bearnaise, a light and herby tarragon-infused cousin of hollandaise sauce.

The restaurant is known for its family recipes, scratch pasta and weekly specials such as $3 homemade meatballs every Monday.

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Outside, the storm was letting up. The rain grew softer against the restaurant window until it stopped. Red sauce pooled at the bottom of Quique’s plate like warm blood ready to pump through a ...