You can’t find Kani Kusruti easily. Her house is off a highway, down a winding, forested lane in Goa, with no signposts. Google Maps will take you only so far and no further. Through the trees, I spot ...

Everything at Okaru is meant to be eaten with chopsticks, from the crispy tofu panzanella salad ($20) to the kani salad ($32) — chock full of real crab and pickled wasabi dressing in lieu of ...